April on The Somme - Spring Has Sprung on The Old Battlefields now so Peaceful

Happy May Day - when it is customary to give the French lady in your life a bouquet of lily of the valley for good luck. A tradition started by King Charles IX of France in 1561. May Day is a well observed Bank Holiday here! But this is about April...

April, as we write this it has been wall to wall sunshine for the last couple of weeks – big blue Somme skies. Though chilly mornings and evenings, the heart of the day is warm and sunny and sun cream recommended for those out exploring. The farmers are even irrigating their new seedlings there has been so little rain.

Outside our front door the landscape is lush green and bright yellow from the rape crop – also known as colza or canola depending on where you are.

Gordon Dump Cemetery

Other signs of spring are the wood anemones  have given way to beautiful bluebells and even the first poppies are appearing. Our cover photo shows a ground view looking up past the bluebells to the Delville Wood trees.

Sparrows and tits are nesting all around us and the blackbirds are choosing their spots tucked in hedges and bushes away from prying eyes.   

We have had many lovely guests through our door, all coming to share The Somme, letting the sunshine warm their bodies and the history and good cheer here warm their hearts and souls. Longer days with the spring hour added and the good weather make April a good time to explore The Somme. This month we have had guests aged 13 to 80 plus and all get something from their visit.

It was 15-year-old Harry who inspired this month’s poem. Travelling with his father, grandfather, uncle and cousin, the family came on a pilgrimage and spent time with David out on the battlefield. A remark by David, in which he questioned whether the Germans were so very different to us, were they not all someone’s son, husband, lover, scared boy? Or as David said "was God an Englishman who plays cricket?”

That night, Harry asked for pen and paper and he penned this:

God’s an Englishman

In the Kingdom of Heaven, the Saints are all out,

Christ in cricket whites, staring down a bowler,

And the Apostles sing, wave the Jack and smash Jerry’s sauerkraut,

All the while tea leaves brew and a beef shoulder roasts for Sund’y afternoon.

And God walks to the chippy, despite the dreary clime,

Bringing back five thousand fish for Pete, Paul and the Bish,

Jesus and His Pals all in the stands, knowing every rhyme,

Chanting all that ungodly stuff, while Ma Mary, at home, irons a cuff.

God bows to King and even further to Guinness,

And God plays golf on England’s pleasant pastures,

God’s loyalties lie with only one realm, ready to shoot at the sight of a Stahlhelm,

His love for Country, King and Flag never to diminish.

You call God a Welshman, He’ll turn you east and charge a thruppence,

You call God a Scotsman, He’ll laugh but beat you ,no delay,

You call God an Irishman, He’ll stare and it all gets tense,

But you call God a German and all you can do is pray.

Yet these claims of love prove empty,

When English blood soaks the Somme,

How can we call God an Englishman,

When the Germans do the same?

Harry, aged 15.

Freddie, Harry, Gary, Paul and Paul with David at Thiepval.

Exploring The Somme

It has been wonderful having familiar faces and new guests through our door again this April. It has been our pleasure to share the Somme with so many lovely people, from near and far.

Not only did Harry write this month’s poem, but their day with David took them all over the battlefields and Harry read William Noel Hodgson’s poem Before Action at his graveside in Devonshire Cemetery. His cousin Freddie (who last visited us when he was 5 and now is 13) and Harry creating many new memories on the battlefield, only being drawn home to see if their beloved Southend FC managed to make the play offs. They vow to be back – and a big thank you to them from us for helping out and understanding during their visit.

At the same time Terry Whenham brought Serian and Matt from Northamptonshire. It is a trip the mother and son had been trying to make on 9^th April for some years as the date has significance for them. Young Fred Height, a Serjeant with 9th Royal Fusiliers was killed on the first day of the battle of Arras  and has no known grave. He is however remembered on the family grave in Northampton where his parents lie. Serian and Matt adopted Fred’s story as the Height grave is next to where Serian’s husband and Matt’s father is buried, taken too soon from their family, just as Fred was from his.

With Terry’s help they followed Fred’s  journey from his home in Northamptonshire to France, and walked the battlefield where Fred’s  battalion advanced, as well as discovering a possible grave for Fred in a nearby cemetery as well as seeing his name on the Arras Memorial.

The trip and whole experience thoroughly moved Serien and Matt. They found it humbling, poignant and uplifting in many ways and they both agreed it had been life changing. They didn’t want to leave Fred alone out here – but as we said – he is not alone, he is among the company of amazing young men, ordinary men who did extraordinary things. And we, all of us who come to remember, make sure they are never forgotten and never alone, as when you are in someone’s thoughts, you are alive again in the best possible way.

Terry with Serien and Matthew

Terry covers the story in his podcast….well worth a listen…

https://audioboom.com/posts/8891237-following-in-the-footsteps-of-a-royal-fusilier-at-arras

Matt and Serian, thank you for visiting. Your visit will linger with us, just as the echoes of war and old German smoke echo here.

Nigel McFadzean came on his motorbike from Northern Ireland. Nigel came to us after a special musical battlefield tour in Belgium which ended with a concert of contemporary songs in St George’s Chapel. He was warmed by the experience. Here on The Somme he had a free agenda. Nigel comes for many reasons, all of which are good for his soul. This time he was on a mission to renovate the VC Memorial stone in the grounds of The Ulster Tower. His great uncle William (Billy) McFadzean VC is remembered there, and just as Nigel’s father had done before him, Nigel wanted to make sure the stone was looking good after being installed 35 years ago on the 75^th anniversary of 1^st July 1916. The stone is made of Granite from the Mourne Mountains and the white lettering which remembers the 9 Ulster VC awardees needed a little tlc.  With the permission of The Somme Association and using traditional methods, Nigel spent 3 days on the stone – using of all things cuttle fish, to bring the stone back to past glory. Well done Nigel, And of course there was the odd Nigel dessert thrown in after a hard day’s restoration work.

Nigel with the newly renovated VC stone. 

Hazel and Hedley visited from Kent and spent an enjoyable few days with us, part of which was to plan their future visits for 2026 as they are frequent visitors who are also Friends of Lochnagar who help to maintain that special place – Hazel is Wildlife Officer for The Friends. Hazel documents the flora and fauna at Lochnagar as well as help keeping the place ready for visitors. Hedley does a sterling job talking to those who visit. They brought with them new Volunteer gilets and donation buckets.

Hedley & Hazel suitably attired.

Andy of Great War Tours brought Bryan on a one to one battlefield tour. With an interest in aviation they visited the sites associated with The Red Baron, Richtofen and  of course the other must see Somme sites. Bryan thoroughly enjoyed his visit - and thank you to him for the lovely Tripadvisor review he left.

We were then joined by 4 friends from Stratford Upon Avon, Sue and Paul and Mike and Gill. Mike and Gill have visited the Somme many times and Mike has written a book about the men on the Stratford War Memorial, but advancing years have prevented them visiting so often now. So good friends Sue and Paul volunteered to bring them over and it was their first visit. They loved their experience here taking in as much as they could, but realising there is so much more to see. All 4 are avid Bridge players and Sue and Paul teach at their Bridge Club so we spent an evening learning the fundamentals. Never too old to learn new things!

Sue and Paul enjoyed their trip very much and the many and varied conversations we had. They realised there is a lot more to discover here,  so they have booked for next September.

Mike, Gill, Sue and Paul - all smiles! 

Battlefield guide Paul brought a group of friends and family out  - too many to stay with us, and we were full anyway - but they popped in for coffee, cake and a chat - always a pleasure to see Paul and his charming entourage.  

Alan has been visiting the battlefields for years and last year at the same time in April he had  agreed to lead a group of his son-in-law Simon’s family on their first visit. Henry and Steph were part of that group and they loved it so much, they asked Alan to repeat the trip with Steph’s family. So in April sunshine we had Alan and wife Julia, Henry and Steph, Steph’s mum and dad Rachel & Alan, sister Lizzy, cousin Dom and Auntie and Uncle Meryl and Steve, from Preston,  Lancashire.

They had a cracking time exploring in the sunshine. The weather forecast was appreciated every morning and there was much history talk as they took in all they saw over 4 days. Alan did a great job. Their focus was on the men of Preston. One of these, Henry has a medal for -  awarded to Corporal Robert McCullough of the Loyal North Lancashire Regiment who died 15^th November 1916 and is buried in New Munich Trench Cemetery.

Henry took the medal to Robert’s grave and paid his respects.

Henry with the medal at Robert's grave.

Meryl and Steve live next door to where another Preston soldier used to live before he joined up. He is buried in Authuille Military Cemetery and Meryl laid a cross in remembrance of him.

There were a few battlefield finds and Henry is definitely a Somme devotee. Lizzy had "find of the week" when she found an embossed metal strip - an original grave ID marker in the field behind Lonsdale Cemetery. The soldier’s name and number still visible. The grave of Private Shaw is in the Cemetery. Interesting that he was in a Lancashire regiment...So they paid their respects to him too and vowed to research him in further detail on their return to the UK.

Lizzy holds the metal ID marker at Private Shaw's grave.

Thank you also to the Preston group for accepting the challenge to put collection buckets out at Lochnagar each day – it became quite competitive each day to see who encouraged the most donations – but they all enjoyed the morning and evening strolls and quiet time at the Crater. It is not the amount raised, it is the willingness to support the special place that is Lochnagar that matters.  Thank you for the funds you helped to raise!

Dom, Steve, Meryl, Steph, Lizzy, Andrew, Rachel and Henry.

There was much chat and laughter around the table to end each glorious day. Dom and Henry were awarded messiest room of the weekend! 

Then we finished the month with Dutch guests - veteran Ton who has visited us before came with his wife Jolanda and 5 of his town council friends Karin, Herman, Hans, Natascha and Paul from Helmond (near Eindhoven).

Herman, Ton, Jolanda, Karin, Natascha, Hans and Paul.

Apart from touring the battlefields we discussed all things cultural and linguistic with our lively and lovely Dutch guests. Thank you for coming. Ton presented us with some miniature Delft Dutch clogs for our appreciated hospitality. There was a little mouse there, where?, On the stair, right there. A little mouse with clogs on going clip clippity clop on the stair! 

From our Dutchies! 

Everyone gets something from their visits to The Somme – whatever age and background. It really does something to your soul coming here. A time to stop and reflect, away from day-to-day life, to think about sacrifice and the things that really matter. You are all amazing.

Planning for 110^th Commemoration of The Battle of the Somme

1^st July this year will be the 110^th anniversary of the start of the Battle of The Somme.  Anniversaries with a 0 always have a resonance and this one no different. There is a lot of planning going on in the background as increased numbers of visitors are expected along with some VVIPS – though in our book the VVIPS are the soldiers who fought here.

The VVIPS mean there will be heightened security.

For us at Lochnagar we will not be particularly affected as we start early in the morning at 07h28 and expect usual public and dignitaries but no VVIPS.  There will be a list of prohibited items such as glass bottles and the whole of the battlefield will be a no-fly zone including no drones.

The 3 ceremonies in the middle of the day – Thiepval, Ulster Tower and Newfoundland Park, will be impacted. Start times have been adjusted to 12 noon, 14h and 15h respectively to allow VVIPs to attend.

There will be no vehicular access to sites (apart from pre registered coaches) and airport style security. There will be a park and shuttle bus service from Albert Airport, Meaulte for these services and it is necessary to pre-register to attend one of these ceremonies. It will not be possible to attend Thiepval and Ulster Tower ceremonies due to the time and security constraints.

We have attended 2 meetings with the French authorities about the planning and a further meeting is scheduled for 18^th May when plans will be finalized and we can then provide updated details.

The Tourist Office have published this information:

Bouzincourt Rederie

Most towns and villages in France once a year have a rederie - a village street market/car boot sale when residents can sell anything by puting up a table on the roadside. They are very popular and if you are here at a weekend it is worth seeking one out. On Sunday it was the turn of  Bouzincourt and we always try to get there for a stroll around - mainly beacause they always have a display of vintage tractors - and we love a tractor! Julie goes weak at the knees for a Massey Ferguson. The sun shone, we met French friends in the street and it is a wonderful way to pass an hour on a Sunday.

Goodbye Kuga

After 16 years of service, the car which brought us to France our beloved white Ford Kuga has been sent off to French retirement. The car which we only intended to keep for a short while after importing it to France has served us so well, but 150,000 miles later it was time to say goodbye and FINALLY we have a left-hand drive car. Welcome to our very French Renault. 

Our trusty Kuga.

150,000 miles, many adventures, battlefield tours, Somme mud, shopping expeditions etc. Goodbye Kuga. Sad face. 

We are sure there will be many adventures to be had in the Renault which we have named Rafa. It has new technology we do not understand  - cars have evolved in 16 years! There isn't even a manual anymore, it's all on an App! 

 Animal Postscript

While Hazel, Hedley and Nigel were here we had a feathered visitor. Standing at our patio doors was a duck. A beautiful male Mallard with a ring on his leg. Obviously lost and confused. Trying to come in for dinner – luckily it wasn’t canard on the menu that night! We all worried about him over night, despite giving him his own tray of oats and lettuce. We put out an appeal on the village chat group too. Next morning he had disappeared, but Hazel saw him on her morning walk, lodging with the chickens who live around the corner on the way to the war memorial. We like to think he made his way back to his pond!

So despite David being amazing this month and providing support and care when it was much needed, and even managing No.fifty6 on his own for a day, he hasn’t quite made it as Employee of the Month. That accolade goes to the duck.

Duck with Nigel's bike.   Employee of The Month.

David’s April Joke

With global oil prices climbing, sad to report pet food company Winalot has gone bust!

A spokesman said: “We’ve had to call in the retrievers.”

All is well at no.fifty6. Stay safe and well and we hope to see you soon.

Remembrance poppy on the lane the soldiers took from Colincamps to The Front Line.